Finally finished reading Ian Frazier’s travel journal across Siberia. Loved it.
I liked “Cold Mountain” a lot, even though I usually don’t get excited with this type of romance-tragedy. For example, I know what The English Patient was trying to say, but I just didn’t feel anything afterwards. Cold Mountain, somehow, is different. The connection to “Odysseus” was unmistakable, and if the impact of that ancient epic was dormant before, Cold Mountain certainly awoke it. I was swept away.
Soon I learned that the title was named after 寒山 the poet. Although I don’t know much about Han Shan (and I still don’t. As much as I admire Frazier, I don’t think Han Shan is the same guy to me as he’s to him. So I just didn’t try), it is enough for me to pick out the Asian sentiment in Frazier’s work. And the Siberian journal is another example.
What I read in the journal was a sense of nostalgia, of attachment to the past (and present) being lost and a slight touch of homesickness. I guess for a popular Western literati, you can’t get more Asian than that. But I really appreciate his angle here: there was a parallel in the vastness of the terrain and the infinity of history. What we consider as “history” today is nothing but a narrow and crooked narrative not unlike the barely-maintained highway threading across Siberia.
Reminded me of a trip of my own. I was in Dun Huang a couple of years ago. ZR and I visited an ancient ruin called “锁阳城”. It was one of the frontier posts manned against the desert nomads since Tang Dynasty. At its peak, the walled area housed thousands of people. But when we got there, it was almost buried in sand dunes drifted south from the nearby Gobi Dessert.
A village girl came to greet us. The ruin was so remote and so little known outside of the famous mural caves, she was as lonely as the half-buried ruin in the middle of the dessert. As we walked onto the once teethed castle wall, a gust of wind whipped up. ZR and the girl stayed behind but I pressed on. At the out-most point where I stood, I could see nothing but an endless span of land that touched sky with a blurred line of horizon. Every here and there, a cyclone danced up, drifted for a while, then faded.
To my left, about less than a mile, was a half collapsed kiln-like structure. It was said to be the stupa of a once prominent Buddhist temple complex. Today, except this structure, there was nothing left. All I found after a short walk around was part of a mummified goat lightly covered by sand under a cluster of desert shrub.
Then and there, I thought I was touching the true, pristine history.
For some reason, a 苏东坡 poem popped in my head:
人生到处知何似?应似飞鸿踏雪泥。
泥上偶然留指爪,鸿飞那复计东西。
老僧已死成新塔,坏壁无由见旧题。
往日崎岖还记否,路长人困蹇驴嘶。